This morning, I woke up in my double bed, and turned over
and grabbed my iPhone. I had 3 text messages and two social network
notifications. I got out of bed, and brushed my teeth, using the water from the
sink to wet my toothbrush and to rinse my mouth out. I put a hat, a coat and my
slippers on, grabbed my keys and stepped out of my house. There was snow on the
ground. I drove to the deli and entered to the smell of eggs and the sound of
complaints from people who say the Knicks suck this year and people who are
cursing Mother Nature because it’s supposed to snow this weekend. The man in
front of me thinks it is ridiculous that the young girl behind the counter put
sausage on his sandwich instead of extra bacon. Doesn’t she know he has places
to be? I don’t know if he knows how to smile. I order a “hungry man” – three
eggs, bacon, ham, sausage, and cheese on a hero roll. I don’t need this much
food, but I can get that much food, so I got it. I go home, turn on the TV and
ate until I couldn’t move. This all took about an hour and a half. This hour
and a half was so drastically different from any hour and a half during my trip
to Ghana.
It has been a week now, and I’m still not used to anything.
I lived in Ghana for six weeks, and now that I am home, I feel like I’m in a
foreign country.
I sit and I think about my trip and my experience every day,
and I am having so much trouble processing and digesting everything that
happened and what I just did. I’ve had people tell me how proud of me they are
- how impressed they are that I was able to move to Ghana for a month and a
half and live and teach. At the time and even a little bit now, I’m having
trouble understanding what is so impressive. Then I remember what my friends
and I said to each other every few days: “Hey Emmy, we’re in Africa,” or, “Hey
Jenna, guess what? We’re in Africa right now.” I spent six weeks living in a
completely different world! Every day I worked with adults and students who
look different than I do, speak differently and believe in different things.
Six weeks! Looking back, the most impressive part is that we all became
acclimated with our surroundings, and what I experienced every day became
normal:
Bumpy dirt roads. Taxis and taxi drivers that get really
excited if I bring up soccer. Hearing people speak Twi. Trying to learn Twi.
Lizards… everywhere. Latex foam signs and latex foam beds. The sound of the
teacher using a cane to discipline a student. Negotiating prices. Rice. Being
called “Sir Michael.” Writing tests on the white board. Allowing children to
carry my books to class. Hot classrooms. Overcrowded classrooms. Two students
to a desk. Little children in the villages screaming because they saw a group
of “obrunis.” Being called big, large, strong, or fat. People eating all meals
with their hands. Only having internet and electricity sometimes. Sweating.
Club Ghana Beer and making sure to return the glass bottles. Squeezing 14
people into a tro tro. Being stared at because I am white. My students laughing
at how I speak Twi. Answering endless questions about America. Asking endless
questions about Ghana. Watching and discussing the football I am not used to.
Students rising to greet me as I enter the classroom. Being hugged and holding
hands with young primary school students that I may have only met once. Using
cedis and pesewas to pay for things. Drinking water out of bags. Students
glowing over even the smallest praise.
One thing I had trouble getting used to and am still
struggling with is an idea that concerns privilege and the guilt I have
stemming from that. On the first night, as we left the airport, the group was
approached by several men who wanted to help us with our luggage. I was so
excited to be in Ghana and so excited to meet people that I introduced myself
and talked to the guys. Soon after, they asked me for money because they helped
me out. I was shocked and upset. I was naïve and thought these people were just
being kindhearted and friendly. It became obvious to me: they saw this group of
white people from the United States as a group of dollar signs who would have
the money to tip, and further, that they obviously need the money. At that
time, I asked myself why I even decided to take the trip. Wouldn’t it be
offensive to stroll into this country and parade around and see poverty and
struggling families and then whip out my iPhone to check the time? I was
worried that I would offend people and flaunt what I have unintentionally. In
the markets and villages, people would ask me to buy their goods and I felt bad
saying no. How much would that one cedi (less that 50 cents) mean to them, and
what does it mean to me? Although I was struck with these thoughts of guilt
nearly every day, I was fortunate enough to meet Ghanaians that are some of the
kindest people I have ever met, who assured me that being around and having
what I have is nothing to feel guilty about. A philosophical teacher and
friend, Callistus, explained to me that he feels that being rich is being able
to be happy while being able to live within one’s means; just because someone
from the United States may have more money that some people in Ghana, that does
not mean he or she is happier or better off than anyone else. Most importantly,
the teachers who work at the school I taught at saw me as colleagues, and the
students respected me as their teacher.
Walked on some rope bridges constructed between trees at the Kakum National Park. |
Just by applying to be in this program, I knew I was stepping
out of my comfort zone and creating an experience that not many have the
privilege of having. In these six weeks, I have pushed myself to my limits
physically and emotionally. I have made lifelong friends, both American and
Ghanaian. For the first time, I have immersed myself in a culture completely
foreign to me and learned about it first hand. I have learned about the
Ghanaian educational system, and have learned from the many teachers I had the
pleasure of working with. It is hard to believe that this trip, beginning with
the months of planning, preparing and learning and culminating with the trip
itself is actually over. I will never forget my students, and I can only hope
that everything I taught them, both about their English curriculum and about
life, will stick with them, and that I have made a lasting impact.
I guess the only thing I have left to say is… What next?